General Polishing by hand directions:1. Use a thin RED
SHOP RAG! Other types of rags are known to increase the amount of rubbing effort required! The most abrasive thing you will
be using is your rag. REMEMBER ~ Gord recommends a **RED SHOP RAG** for maximum results in removing Fuel,
Brightener, Acid, Salt, Brake Dust, and Water Stains. Polishing with other types of rags often result in double/triple effort
and time!
2. Fold RED SHOP RAG in quarters and then in half. SHAKE WELL and LIBERALLY WET portion of rag to polish
with.
3. SATURATE area to be polished. Allow to SOAK for 1-2 minutes. Let the polish do its work FIRST by soaking
in and loosing corrosion!
4. Rub & scrub well, paying special attention to rough areas that you feel, and stained
areas that you know are there.
5. Use the 1-2 minute soaking method between rubbing efforts to allow polish to
soak into stubborn areas.
6. Use pin pointed rubbing for water spots. Rub along the directional lines of streaks,
such as running stains from water, fuel, and other staining elements.
7. IF residue is REALLY black and thick,
remove before it dries completely. You want the residue that dries and seals to be as clean as possible. After you remove
this type of residue, apply polish with a clean rag and rub ONLY well enough to make sure surface is well saturated, and any
remaining residue has been loosened. Do not scrub hard unless you notice missed spots.
8. Allow residue to DRY
COMPLETELY! This is VERY important in adding strength to your sealer. Repeated applications improve ease of polishing, clarity
of shine, AND strength of sealer.
9. Remove residue with towel or sturdy terry cloth rag. Old T-shirts work fine,
but do increase the amount of effort required from YOU!
10. Use a CLEAN SOFT rag to buff your shine. We recommend
micro fiber rags for final buffing. If your shine appears smudgy, wash with good non-stripping car wash soap. This is caused
by residues of previously used wax and other types of chemical build up.
Eventually, with repeated use of Gord's
products, this smudging decreases and your shine will be clearer, cleaner, and last longer.
Gord's Tips for EXTREME Trouble Spots or Stains using #0000 Steel Wool and a red Shop Towel by hand:
This Process will remove Old Man winter, Coastal
Salt, and Acidic dirt corrosion from ALUMINUM in no time. DO NOT USE THIS METHOD FOR CHROME AND STAINLESS unless you KNOW what you are doing! Concentrate on
scrubbing lightly to remove ONLY rough surface corrosion, not digging into the metal. Our polish does NOT smooth out, or reduce
visibility of scratches on Chrome and Stainless, like it does from Aluminum with the Red Shop Rag. For exhaust pipes, heat
them up a little (150F) for quick results. Wetter is better! Use this method for removing bluing, and
boot marks from motorcycle exhaust pipes, with a shoe shine type polishing method, and red shop rag for the final shine.
Restoring Aluminum ~ Does 10 MINUTES or less sound better than HOURS?
This is the process
to use also on Heavily Oxidized Diamond Plate Aluminum!
1. SHAKE WELL & Apply
Gord's liberally to a Piece of GRADE (0000) Steel Wool. Make sure it is
(0000) grade!
2. SATURATE & Scrub area with (0000) Steel Wool, and let sit 1 or 2 minutes to soak in, and loosen build
up. Steel wool MUST BE SOAKING WET! This keeps it from leaving heavy scratching! For REALLY tough
jobs, repeat the soaking method. Rub & scrub after each soaking period. Keep it WET with Gord's!
3. Remove residue, and follow General Polishing guidelines with Red Shop Rag.
Wet sanding and (0000) steel wool methods
with Gord's Polish make Billet & RAW unpolished Aluminum look like Chrome!
***Guaranteed***
Call Gord for more information!
1-361-643-3998
Clean & Clear dull & yellowed Lexan Headlights too!
Make Centerlines, Boyd's, Cragers, American
Racing, Alcoa, Accu-ride and many other Aluminum rims look as much like chrome as possible!
Gord's Polish ~ Hot
Coastal Climate, Dirty Winter Road, Salt Water, & Oil Field Tested!***Patent Pending!***
Enjoy your Shine!
Gord’s
Artwork and All Similarities on Website and Label cannot be reproduced in anyway, shape, or form without the written consent
from Gordon Crissey.
All Re-labeling and Re-bottling is Illegal without Written Permission from Gordon
Crissey. Any illegal reproducing,
or counterfeiting of Gord’s Patent Pending Formula, will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law.
All of the directions listed below come with
every order of Gord's Polish
Low Speed Buffing Technique 300-750 rpm
AirStreams & Tankers must be in
the shade.
Do not try this in direct sunlight
Use the (0000) Steel
wool as an applicator. Apply Gord’s Polish liberally to Steel Wool and apply to aluminum scrubbing lightly while making sure
no dry areas of the steel wool come in contact with the aluminum being polish. 2x3 sections are better, overlapping seams.
Wetter is Better.
While area is wet take a wool pad on a buffer and buff area until product is dry. DO NOT TRY TO BUFF PRODUCT
AFTER IT IS DRY AS THIS WILL CAUSE BURNISHING.
Repeat the application and buffing process, to desired shine. Let the
product dry completely before removing hazing.
If areas polished create a burnished look simply take a clean towel and
apply polish to it and wipe over burnished areas and wipe immediately before drying with a clean rag. A Micro fiber towel
works the best for final wiping.
Remember to let product dry between each application as this create a STRONGER Sealer left
behind.
Cleaning Yellow Headlights
Apply a liberal amount of Polish to (0000) Steel Wool.
Scrub Headlight aggressively for about 1 minute. Do this to each Lexan Headlight 2 times. Let the
product dry between each scrubbing.
Liberally
apply Polish to a Red Shop Rag and scrub each headlight again for about 1 minute. Do this to each Headlight 2 times. Let the
product dry between each scrubbing.
Let
Polish dry completely where polish has splattered from scrubbing.
If you have questions about this procedure, give Gord a call.
